A Design Lover’s Guide to Rajasthan
18-day trip - Cities included
Delhi, Agra, Sapotra, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Narlai and Udaipur
To help us plan our trip we used travel experts cazenove+loyd
I've always wanted to visit India, and finally, with our kids now grown, it seemed like the perfect time for my husband and I to indulge in the experience fully. Rajasthan, known for its vibrant culture and history, was an ideal starting point. Join me as I share the highlights and inspirations from our travels.
A little about myself: I'm an interior designer with a knitwear design background and have owned lifestyle stores. I love colour, artisan crafts, and storytelling. As you can imagine, I could hardly contain my excitement at the chance to explore the colours and textures of Rajasthan.
Through my work, I help clients create their own story of home. Come along on my journey through Rajasthan, where every city has its own story to tell.
A Designer's Journey Through Rajasthan:
Delhi Day 1+2
Our journey began in the vibrant heart of Delhi, buzzing with the symphony of beeping horns and surrounded by many historical buildings. The unexpected warmth from the locals provided a comforting start to our adventure.
In Old Delhi, Chandni Chowk overwhelmed the senses—every corner burst with unexpected delights. This marketplace, a wedding planner’s dream, was awash with dazzling colours and shimmering fabrics.
Amid the city's temples and forts, we explored several heritage hotels to glimpse interiors from bygone eras. At The Claridges, built in 1952 and known for its post-deco style, we enjoyed a nostalgic peek into the past, including a delightful visit to its beautifully maintained bathrooms.
Dinner at the Spice Route restaurant inside the Imperial Hotel turned into a lavish affair. The opulent interiors matched the exquisite flavours, topped off by the best G&T in Delhi at the hotel’s bar.
Gandhi’s Last Resting Place in Gandhi Smriti was simple and grounding. This modest site, where Mahatma Gandhi spent his final days, taught us about the enduring moral principles he championed, offering a profound counterpoint to the luxury we’d experienced elsewhere in the city.
Agra Day 3+4
Taj Mahal
We caught an early train to Agra, eager for our much-anticipated visit to the Taj Mahal. The journey was quick, setting us up for an overnight trip with two visits to this iconic UNESCO World Heritage site. Beyond the Taj, Agra itself offered little else, but the monument alone was worth the journey—truly mesmerising.
Our guide, Shiela, was remarkable as our navigator through the bustling crowds and a compelling figure herself. As the primary earner in her family, her resilience and assertiveness in a male-dominated profession were inspiring. She deftly managed our tour, and with equal gentleness, she guided us safely across busy roads. With her guidance, we captured stunning photographs and absorbed the poignant history behind the Taj Mahal’s creation. Describing the marble’s translucent glow is challenging; you must witness it at sunset and sunrise to fully appreciate it!
Later, we visited a local artisan shop where skilled craftspeople showcased the ancient technique of Pietra Dura, which adorns the Taj Mahal. This art involves carving intricate designs into white marble to accommodate inlays of patterns crafted from precious and semi-precious gemstones, demonstrating exceptional craftsmanship.
Sapotra Day 4+5
En route to Jaipur, we paused for a night in the tranquil village of Sapotra, warmly greeted by its residents. The village children, curious and full of joy, eagerly held my hands and posed for photos. This peaceful village life provided a soothing respite from the bustling city. I was particularly captivated by the women in colourful saris balancing crops on their heads; the vivid green crops set against turquoise saris inspired a fresh idea for an interior colour pairing!
Next, our journey took us to Ramanthra Fort. With only one night to absorb its majesty, we delved into the tranquillity of this serene hilltop fortress. The views stretched into the horizon, a breathtaking canvas of nature's artistry. The fort is undergoing a meticulous restoration that blends traditional craftsmanship with Provençal design elements. The walls, adorned with vibrant fuchsia pink bougainvillaea against yellow ochre, offered a picturesque contrast. Meanwhile, the simplicity of the elegant bedrooms, featuring hand-blocked printed bedding, ensured that the spectacular views remained the focal point. We found ourselves wishing for an extra night to soak it all in.
Jaipur Days 5-10
Top 7 Must-do Highlights of Jaipur
Samode Haveli Hotel
City Palace and Gardens
Princess Diya Kumari Foundation
Shopping in Jaipur
Phool Mandi (flower and vegetable Market)
Outdoor (and laughing) Yoga
The Govind Temple
After a lively four-hour drive to Jaipur, weaving through cows and overloaded motorbikes, my excitement bubbled over as we entered the city. Spotting the famous pink walls of the old town was like checking off a bucket list item! Back in the hustle and bustle, I found Jaipur's streets calmer than others, making the city feel quite welcoming.
1. Samode Haveli Hotel: We checked into The Samode Haveli, which I’d eagerly followed through Rosanna Folcaner’s Instagram posts. Walking into the hotel’s reception was like stepping into a dream; every corner burst with colour and intricate designs, from the detailed inlay work to the hand-painted ceilings, which were an absolute feast for any interior designer’s eyes.
Our first room was lovely but a bit too understated for me; it leaned more towards colonial elegance, which differed from the burst of colour I sought. Picking up on my reaction, the friendly receptionist kindly suggested we look at some other rooms. The options he showed us were stunning, each with its own distinctive flair. We eventually chose a room featuring a magnificent chalky yellow vaulted ceiling, beautifully detailed with intricate carvings, just the room I had hoped for!
Strolling outside, the paths lined with terracotta pots filled with blooms in shades of pinks, reds, and lilacs led us to a dining area transformed at night by twinkling lights and festoons hanging from an old Carob tree, pure magic!
2. City Palace: One of the visual highlights of our Jaipur visit had to be the City Palace. I think I snapped more photos there than anywhere else! Each corner boasted spectacular colours and details, from beautifully painted doorways in lovely pinks and greens to artworks featuring peacocks, my favourite birds. Walking into the royal parlour, arranged in advance, was awe-inspiring. The vibrant cornflower blue of the walls provided a stunning backdrop that made the pink saris of passing women pop spectacularly. Each moment in the City Palace was like walking through a rich story, alive with history and bursting with colour, just as I love it.
3. PDKF: After touring the Palace, we stopped by the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation, an NGO dedicated to empowering women. The foundation supports income generation, health initiatives, education, and rural empowerment programs. Meeting women who had mastered machine sewing and intricate embroidery techniques was inspiring. They create beautiful pieces that they sell to support themselves and their families. This visit was a profound reminder of the power of skill and self-reliance.After touring the Palace, we stopped by the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation, an NGO dedicated to empowering women. The foundation supports income generation, health initiatives, education, and rural empowerment programs. Meeting women who had mastered machine sewing and intricate embroidery techniques was inspiring. They create beautiful pieces that they sell to support themselves and their families. This visit was a profound reminder of the power of skill and self-reliance.
4. Shopping in Jaipur: As an interior designer with a knack for spotting the unique and hand-crafted, Jaipur's reputation as a shopping paradise and the textile capital had me buzzing excitedly like a bee in a honeypot! Eager to dive into the local scene, our fantastic guide quickly lined up the ideal wholesalers for me. I jumped at the chance to barter for vibrant printed fabrics, exquisite tablecloths, intricate wall hangings, and cosy throws, securing some fabulous wholesale deals to offer my clients back home. Meanwhile, my husband, Mike, snagged himself a perfectly tailored jacket and a couple of shirts, all made overnight!
After we visited the textile wholesaler, I jumped at the opportunity to try hand-block printing, a craft I've cherished since my days of screen printing in art school. I'm always struck by the beautiful simplicity of the tools and the meticulous precision required. Watching the colours evolve as the dye set was mesmerising. We then watched skilled artisans weaving and meticulously hand-cutting the carpets, ensuring flawless patterns. Being part of this process and observing the artisans highlighted the incredible dedication, spanning weeks and even months, that goes into these stunning works of art.
Next up were the famed jewellery shops of Jaipur, where the gemstones are as colourful as the city itself. The craftsmanship was impressive, and I couldn't resist picking up a gorgeous ring to celebrate my upcoming 50th birthday. It's not just a piece of jewellery; it's a treasure that'll always remind me of our adventures in Jaipur!
5. Phool Mandi: We rose early to experience the bustling early morning Phool Mandi wholesale market and participate in yoga within the City Palace gardens. As we arrived at the market, which was just beginning to come alive, I was immediately struck by the sight of women expertly balancing heavy boxes of vegetables on their heads. Curious about their load, I tried lifting one and was amazed by its weight; these women were incredibly strong.
My attention was soon captured by another vibrant scene: large saris bundled with colourful flower heads. It was a feast for the eyes with Roses, Carnations, Gerberas, and Marigolds painting a vivid tableau of colours, a true delight!
6. Outdoor Yoga: After the market, we hopped into a rickshaw and headed to the City Palace Gardens for some yoga. As soon as we entered the gardens, our yoga teacher, who doubled as our guide, started calling out in Hindi, surprising us. Quickly, a group of locals, mostly older men and a few women, joined us. What followed was one of the most unique and freeing experiences of the trip: laughing yoga. Led by an enthusiastic older gentleman, we all laughed together, echoing through the gardens.
Once our laughter settled, our teacher found us a peaceful spot on the grass for a more traditional yoga session. Surrounded by birdsong, we even nailed a supported headstand! It was a fantastic way to start the day.
7. The Govind Temple: After our yoga session, we visited the Govind Temple, Jaipur’s most beloved temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. Participating in the morning Aarti, with its lovely group singing and chanting, was a beautiful and immersive experience.
The energy and creativity of Jaipur were infectious, and it was hard to leave with so much still to explore. Reluctantly, we headed to the airport, excited for our next adventure but knowing we'd return to Jaipur again.
Jodphur Day 10-13
Fresh from our flight into Jodphur, we again met with our lovely driver, Vikram, and headed into the ‘Blue City. ’ A wash of bright indigo pigment-painted walls welcomed us into the old town, a much smaller city just outside of the desert. Vikram deftly navigated the narrow streets, getting us to the city's heart and our next hotel, RAAS Jodphur. The view from the central courtyard of the Raas is jaw-dropping; the majestic expanse of Mehrangarh Fort on the hilltop that overlooks the hotel’s glistening pool is unforgettable.
Right beside our hotel was Toorji's Step Well, another beautiful site. We spent time there relaxing at a laid-back local café, sipping Coca-Cola while watching daring local teens dive into the 300-meter-deep turquoise waters of the well.
Later, we explored the local market near the clock tower, where we sampled delicious vegetable samosas and mingled with friendly locals. Wandering through the side streets, we admired the beautiful hand-painted motifs on the indigo walls. Our exploration led us to a local jeweller crafting traditional Lac bangles, where we observed the fascinating process of colouring and shaping natural lac over a coal burner.
Next up, woodcraft wholesalers: another feast for the eyes! We found ourselves in a warehouse brimming with handicrafts, wooden furniture, and textiles, from jewel-encrusted urns as tall as me to intricately carved wooden doors. Needless to say, we didn’t leave empty-handed from this treasure trove of vintage delights!
We spent our last day in Jodhpur relaxing in our stylish yet simple accommodation, sipping cocktails by the pool under the warm sun, and enjoying the breathtaking views.
Narlai Day 13-14
As we reluctantly departed from Jodhpur, heading towards our final destination, we stopped at Rawla Narlai, a charming old hunting lodge nestled in the heart of the village and situated beneath a towering granite hill. The view was unforgettable, and the perspective from the top after an early morning climb was equally stunning.
Our stay included a drive in the countryside, where we went bird-watching and kept our eyes peeled for leopards. The highlight, however, came as we arrived in darkness to have supper at a beautiful local stepwell. The scene was magical, illuminated by hundreds of tealights and enhanced by the soothing sounds of a sitar player amidst the lights. The candlelit ambience made us feel incredibly special and welcome. At dinner, in an intimate setting, we were seated beside the stepwell, cosy under blankets and warmed by small fires. We were pampered with gin and tonics and a series of delicious dishes, making for a deeply romantic experience. The evening ended perfectly with an ox cart ride home under the starlit sky, creating a heavenly moment.
Udaipur Day 14-17
For our final stop, we headed to the Raas Devigarh Hotel, recommended as a serene retreat just 45 minutes outside Udaipur. This was excellent advice; the hotel was situated in a lush, tranquil setting, and the architecture was breathtaking. The break from city life allowed us to fully enjoy the Indian countryside.
Exploring the expansive premises, we were captivated by the harmonious blend of diverse interior styles within the building. Ancient murals sat comfortably beside art deco-styled sofas, creating a unique aesthetic fusion. Being in the grandeur of the palace felt truly special, and honestly, the hotel's write-up couldn’t have described it better.
‘Much more than just a place to stay, RAAS Devigarh sets the bar for next-generation India. Nestled in the Aravali Hills, just 45 minutes from Udaipur, this 18th-century palace is an outstanding heritage property. Responsibly updated, eco-minded, and environmentally conscious, it meets the needs of the modern traveller while remaining a stunning testament to the beauty, charm, and magic of old-world Rajputana.’
We dedicated a day to exploring Udaipur, a city elegantly organised around its famous lake. Our visit included a tour of the majestic City Palace and a delightful boat cruise to small islands that have not only been featured in a James Bond movie but are also a sought-after wedding destination.
In Udaipur, I indulged in one last session of Indian craftsmanship at a gallery showcasing wooden handicrafts and miniature paintings. I was amazed watching an artist deftly use a squirrel-tail brush for the intricate details, especially since he didn’t even need glasses—a feat given that such detail usually requires a magnifying glass!
Our final shopping excursion nearly pushed Mike to his limit with my enthusiasm for retail! Udaipur's renowned embroidery was our last stop for retail therapy and certainly lived up to its reputation. We departed with our treasures: exquisite wall hangings, cushion covers, and a painting, all testament to the rich artistic traditions of the city.
We bid a fond farewell to Vikram and returned to Delhi for one last night before our journey home. We had left the UK with two suitcases and returned with four, plus two boxes, which made the trip by sea!
Reflecting on our adventure in India, it's clear that the experience enriched me far beyond the vibrant colours and stunning architecture. What truly resonates are the memories of the kind, engaging, and humble people we met along the way. While I don't follow a religion, seeing the deep devotion to their gods and the strong moral values that guide such a densely populated nation gave me a profound understanding of their culture. It's fascinating how, much like the chaotic yet somehow orderly traffic of cars, lorries, cows, and motorbikes, the people of India move together in harmony.
This journey was a beautiful tapestry of sights, sounds, and human connections, leaving an indelible mark on my heart.
The expertise of cazenove+loyd made the planning process much smoother and enjoyable and we were so grateful for their assistance in creating such a memorable experience.
